In India I felt like a celebrity, then like a terrorist

A decorated tree in India

A embellished tree in India

For a convention that attracted some 1,200 delegates from greater than 80 nations, there have been inevitably a number of black individuals in India’s New Delhi.

Nonetheless, we blacks – not essentially Africans as there have been a number of from the Caribbean, America and even Europe – nonetheless drew each admirable and disapproving gazes from a number of of India’s 1.three billion residents.

I used to be the one journalist from Uganda and one in every of seven from Africa (Lesotho, South Africa, Ghana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Malawi) attending the Companions’ Discussion board on Maternal and Baby Well being in New Delhi final month.

The admirable gazes made me really feel like a celeb of kinds, whereas the disapproving ones made me really feel like operating away. In spite of everything, I used to be totally conscious of the truth that darker pores and skin of even the Indians themselves, nonetheless attracts discrimination, however fortunately I used to be within the cosmopolitan New Delhi.

The troopers and police had been all the time curious. Possibly I used to be all the time going out on the mistaken time, however for all occasions, I used to be all the time the one black individual in a bar, restaurant or native market and everybody outdid themselves in making an attempt to cheat me out of some rupees, together with pressured ideas.

My new Indian pal Puja had advised me, “Once they say 700 rupees, all the time say you have got 100 rupees as a result of you’ll normally take the merchandise at 150 rupees”.

And the way true she was! Haggling is the pure method right here. On the magnificent Vigyan Bhavan convention centre in central New Delhi, one soldier checked out my convention tag and requested if Uganda was in America.

Taking it as a joke, I answered within the affirmative. Earlier than I knew it, he was telling me about how he loves America and I ought to assist him go there since he had heard that whoever is there has already made it.

I promised (okay, lied) that I’d assist him later. Feeling responsible, after the convention I regarded for him so I may undo the lie, however he was gone. He was a part of the elite presidential guards and had left with Prime Minister Narendra Modi.


Getting my Indian visa had been surprisingly straightforward provided that, we – all 15 journalists from world wide attending the convention – needed to safe an all-clear letter first from the ministry of Exterior Affairs.

We additionally needed to declare that we had no allegiance to Pakistan. Mine was given inside 24 hours however we learnt of delegates notably from Nigeria and Pakistan who had been denied the visas.

Nigerians, for the worldwide (largely mistaken) notion of shadiness, and the Pakistanis for his or her earlier terrorism acts on Indian soil. For some unknown motive, even immigration officers at Entebbe airport had been very interested by my causes for leaving for India.

By no means, in all my earlier exits from Entebbe, have I been requested to clarify why I used to be leaving for a specific nation and for the way lengthy.

Properly, the curiosity from the officers continued at arrival on the Indira Gandhi Worldwide airport in New Delhi. Do some Ugandans truly disappear in India? Hmm…

For a convention that had some 1,200 delegates, the variety of worldwide arrivals was clearly excessive. However that didn’t appear to trouble the immigration officers in any respect. A number of counters remained empty regardless of the overwhelming variety of passengers and the snaking queues.


It was additionally stunning that an airport of such magnitude, in such an influential nation had no free Wi-Fi. Absolutely, if Entebbe can have free Wi-Fi, why not Indira Gandhi airport? Properly, I regretted not having printed or saved my itinerary beforehand.

Issues had been made worse by the truth that few officers on the airport spoke English, or perhaps selected to not. I’d ask one thing in English and get a mouthful of a solution in no matter language that got here with the forceful gestures.

The one possibility I had was to go for the Airtel kiosk throughout the airport that was promoting sim playing cards. There was equally one other lengthy queue there and as I used to be nonetheless considering whether or not to hitch the queue or not (I had already stood lengthy sufficient at immigration), I remembered that I needed to coordinate stuff again residence and on the convention totally on WhatsApp.

And my recognized communication line was the identical telephone line I exploit again residence. I deserted the thought of buying an Indian sim card.

Fortunately, the convention organisers and our resort the Taj Mahal had organized pickup transport for us.

After the airport unpleasantness, I used to be pleasantly stunned to seek out that the Taj Mahal resort makes visitors really feel like princes inside their very own palaces, no matter their pores and skin color! If they may, they might have bathed me.


Again residence on this ‘third world’, stray cows and canine on the streets considerably sign filth. Little question, India is impressively extra superior by way of infrastructure than my Uganda, however there are simply too many stray canine and cows all over the place.

Stray canine normally feed on garbage and that is aplenty in India. I used to be advised it’s even worse as soon as one will get out of New Delhi, which apparently is the gorgeous face of India.

In line with 2016 statistics by the BBC, India has the world’s highest variety of stray canine – estimated at over 30 million! And you may see them all over the place, even within the diplomatic neighbourhood the place I used to be residing.

On the Vigyan Bhavan convention centre, they had been even napping on the crimson carpet meant for use by the prime minister and high-level delegates. There are additionally road beggars throughout with their makeshift buildings.

From time to time I’d spot one taking a shower standing in a basin, utilizing a cup as a bathe. Earlier than the convention, we had a debriefing in south New Delhi on the PROTO Civic Media Studio at 91springboard.

It’s a plush workplace by each means, bizarrely positioned within the center a really soiled environ. A few of my media colleagues thought we had been truly misplaced, given how soiled and untidy the skin regarded.

But upstairs was well-equipped, very company workplaces. Possibly I wanted to remain longer for India to develop on me; coming residence has by no means been an even bigger pleasure.

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